Thursday, May 8, 2014

The ultimate experience



I have been coming to do research in Kosovo for several years now. My academic interests evolve around terrorism, identity and radicalisation. Quite frankly: radicals are my thing and when it comes to being radical Kosovo is a nonpareil. Think about it – the fierce fight for independence, the courage to change a geopolitical status quo, the refusal to yield… Kosovo is a real treasure when it comes to deepening understanding and broadening horizons. In fact, every time I arrive in Kosovo I don’t feel like a researcher, but rather like a kid in a candy shop.

OK, my friends tell me, but why bringing students with you? Why do you bother at all? What compels you to make your life difficult and trouble yourself with a group of youngsters who don’t know a thing about this place when you could do the research on your own?

Well, my answer is, easy things are easy but the challenging ones are those which are worth the time. Also, talking about radicals, fieldtrip is an ultimate radical teaching experience and since I consider myself to be a teacher by vocation I would never miss such opportunity!

Why do I claim that fieldtrips constitute radical teaching? There are several reasons, I shall talk about those three which are the most important for me. I’m sure you can easily expand this list even further.

Firstly, remember the commandments drummed into you by your tutors and instructors. What is the first one? Do your readings! Of course! And the more, the better. Readings provide you with the factual foundation, offer the background factors, and – last but not least – introduce you to the main theories and debates pertaining to the given issue. These three things are absolutely indispensable for teaching: data, context and perspectives. In the classroom you don’t have to do your readings, in the field you must know them, otherwise you’ll be lost. Resolution 1244, Athisaari Plan, Albin Kurti’s political vision – all these are your tools for survival. Out there, knowledge is not a choice any more, it becomes a necessity.

Secondly, in the classroom you have a chance to opt out. You don’t have to participate, you don’t have to be active, you can just passively let the class go by. You can sit quietly and let the others speak and engage. Fieldtrip, on the other hand, excludes the passivity and avoidance is not on the menu! The things you see, notice and observe, the phenomena you experience, the conversations and debates you participate in – the exposure is total and unforgettable. Guess what, you won’t have to revise for exams. In a sense, fieldtrip is an exam on its own.

Finally, and that’s my favourite part, fieldwork is all about translating the theories into practices. The theories is something you read and learn about, alternatively it’s something you hear about from people when X says something while Y argues that things are different. Fieldwork provides you with the reality check. And so, you might hear the Deputy Minister of Foreign Affairs Petrit Selimi telling you that Kosovo has the most advanced legislation in the whole Balkans when it comes to minorities, but at the same time you have the possibility to visit the Roma, Ashkali and Egyptians’ neighbourhood in Fushë Kosova and see that law and daily praxis don’t add up. You can study human rights and know everything about the right to adequate housing or the right to water, but somehow it is different to talk about it in the class and altogether different to be deprived of shower after 10pm.

During the fieldtrip you compare and contrast. You start asking questions. You start saying “yes, but” and coming up with your own ideas and opinions. In short, you fulfil every teacher’s dreams. Simultaneously, all this is not forced but comes as naturally as breathing. And for these reasons I do believe fieldtrips to be the ultimate radical teaching experience. For these reasons I cannot wait for another fieldtrip with you. 

I’m ready when you are! Shall we?

Wednesday, May 7, 2014

Talk football, talk IR

Let me start by introducing myself: I am Martijn Gerritsen, an 18-year-old AUC student, probably (as you can never be too sure about these kinds of things) majoring in Environmental Economics & Policy and International Relations.

When Anne told us about the trip to Kosovo she had organized, I was – to be honest – not so sure what to think of it. Kosovo. All I knew from this country was, basically, part of distant stories I had read or encountered somewhere, sometime. To me, Kosovo was a part of former Yugoslavia, known for its disputes and conflicts over its borders, its people, and its authority; I could possibly have distilled all that from a newspaper article dealing with one of the issues in the country. To me, Kosovo was also this dark-yellow spot, less than half the size of the Netherlands, on the world map on my room’s wall; a more tangible conceptualization. To me, above all, Kosovo was a ‘fairly blank spot’, an unknown and hard-to-imagine place – but not for long.

Some of the most intriguing thoughts that have colored my view of Kosovo during our week-long trip can be identified in the following short story from Salih Zogiani’s Albanian Anecdotes (2011), the book that each of us received as a present from Anne and Erik:

“Rifat Kukaj had a son that was getting married. Before the wedding-goers went to take the bride they decided not to take along the Albanian flag as customary as the Serb police would ill-treat them. When the wedding-goers reached the bride’s house they asked Rifat:
- Where is the flag?
- What flag? – Rifat asks.
- The national flag, - the bride’s father says.
- Well – Rifat said – my son is being married, not the entire nation, - Rifat Kukaj replied.”

-          79. MY SON IS BEING MARRIED, NOT MY NATION (p. 80)

First of all, this anecdote touches upon an age-old wedding tradition, which we have been lucky enough to witness ourselves during our visit to the Roma, Askhali, and Egyptian communities in Fushë Kosova: that of the bride being ‘taken away’ by a group of wedding-goers, accompanied by traditional music, singing, and dancing. Personally, the fact that I have been able to see – and predominantly hear – a ritual as such,  makes me kind of proud. Proud in the sense that I have been able to ‘partake’ – passively, but still – in a practice that has been there for years and years, allowing me to, shortly, become part of the cultural tradition of a minority group in the Kosovar society. Who would have thought this could have overcome me beforehand? I would certainly not.

Secondly, Rifat Kukaj’s story exemplifies how troublesome the current relationships between Albanians and Serbians can still be; an “ill-treatment” as a result of the displaying of either an Albanian or a Serbian flag is not at all unthinkable in some contemporary cases. This quite shocking realization came to me after having heard stories of and having seen Mitrovica’s barricaded bridge, which blocks the way, and, in some way, creates a ‘wall’ between the Serbian north and the Albanian Kosovar south of the city. It seems unreal to me that a teacher at the International Business College is afraid to cross this bridge from north to south on her own, and, hence, prefers to go together with her students. It also seems unreal to me that in a generation as young as my own, some Albanians and some Serbians need to communicate with each other in English, unable to understand the other sufficiently well to set up a dialogue in either of their native languages. It seems, to me, equally hard to understand how there can be so little empathy for each other’s grievances at times. I would not have thought to learn such upsetting stories as I did in Mitrovica – its bridge is still far from being crossed.

This situation is also reflected in Kukaj’s anecdote: the entire Kosovar nation is not – and, effectively, cannot be – married. From what I have seen and from what I have learned during our stay in Kosovo, it is extremely difficult, and maybe even impossible, to unite Kosovo’s ethnic groups under a single Kosovar identity or framework. Key to this understanding are, in my opinion, two notions that were righteously put forward by Lulzin Peci, founder and senior fellow of the Kosovar Institute for Policy Research and Development (KIPRED). The first is that “ethnicities have to understand diversity of belonging”; the second is the realization that “people make history”. If groups of people are able to reflect on their own diversity with respect to other groups, this inherently implies that they, at least partly, understand these other groups. And, I think, mutual understanding of each other’s good and bad qualities serves as the foundation upon which a sustainable and peaceful relationship can be built. In addition to that, I have come to believe that the people involved in ongoing conflicts or issues, such as in Mitrovica, for example, will have to come to realize that it is people who make history. From this, it follows that it is also people only that can influence the history that is being made; through their acts and deeds of today one is able to ‘change’ history. If awareness of this notion can be promoted amongst the arguing people, we will come closer – if not halfway, already – to crossing the bridge.

Teamphoto with the players from O.F.K. As.
Thanks for the photo, Lisa Maza!
Most significantly, however, is that I have seen people actually crossing the bridge and coming closer to their neighbors during this trip. In particular these stories have attended me to the great prospective there is for the people of Kosovo. To clarify this, I would like to share with you the story of the futsal team which I encountered during the Albanian festivities in Tupalle, Serbia, on May 1: O.F.K. As, based in Bujanovac, Serbia. Although this team plays in a Serbian futsal league, the majority of the players are Albanian.  Interestingly, however, as I played along with them for some time, I noticed that there were no tensions to be felt between these guys at all: they were friends. For me personally, being able to see such true comradeship between Albanians and Serbians, where mutual respect is paid to each other’s culture, language, and tradition, was by far the greatest part of this trip. Who would have thought I would be able to be part of this kind of relationship, too, after the devastating stories of Mitrovica’s divide? I would have hoped for it, for sure, but did I also think of it, for real? What I certainly do know now is that we, people, are able to take care of our own history, and, more importantly, that we are able to build – and cross – bridges.

I am grateful for the great opportunities this trip to Kosovo has offered me, and I would like to wholeheartedly thank our ‘teachers’ Anne, Monika, and Erik, our guides Bardha and Enver (who also was an incredible host, by the way), and all of the other students for their contribution to our ‘bridge-building’. Faleminderit shumë! You all have been amazing ‘engineers’, each in your own way!

PS: I have noticed that talking football to some guys can bring you closer to matters you have been looking for than you would have dared to think. So my advice would be: if appropriate - talk football, talk IR.

Tuesday, May 6, 2014

What a trip!

Dear Friends, Të nderuar miq, драги пријатељи,

This is Erik de Graaf here. I am married to Anne. She is the person guilty of arranging this trip. I was invited to come along and I gladly participated. All throughout this academic year, I have got to know the students through the eyes of Anne, or more specifically, through the warm effect they have on her. I was happy to have a first-hand opportunity to get to know some of them personally.

I was supposed to add some weight to the group. That much I achieved. And to show some muscle if needed. I sort of became the muscle-man, who happens to come from Scheveningen too.

The main thing I am taking home with me from this trip is the realization, no rather amazement, of how 19 students and some organizers grew into a tight, committed and caring group. And as a collective, we were able to share and experience all of the flavours of Kosovo. All of the colours of its rainbow. We were torn apart by some of the hopelessness, surprised by some of the initiatives and frustrated by some of the stubbornness. We were taken by its kindness, grateful for its friendships and thankful for its openness. We sought each other out to process all of it. And particularly during the last magical evening, we were able to share some of our individual experiences and feelings. It gave some closure to an emotional week full of contradicting views and opposing camps. We all sort of felt like we had become part of this community. Perhaps by now we all are Newborn Kosovars.  

But when I woke up at home on Saturday, I realized I was even more confused than before I left. Some IR instructors may see this as evidence of a successful trip, but I think that most of us grew to feel so close to Kosovo, that it hurt a little, if not a lot. A sense of helplessness came over me, for there seemed to be little I could do. A good illustration was our brief meeting with students from North Mitrovica. The meeting was so short, that I felt we left there without having been able to convince the students of what may be considered the right attitude in working towards a sustainable peace for the region. However, reality forces me to accept that even if we had spent the whole week there, the outcome would most likely have been the same.

But in the mixture of experiences, some of us were lucky to get a flavour of how Serbs and Albanians can live together in some sort of harmony, even play for the same football team, and share music, dance and culture. How they are learning each other’s languages. And how they are building friendships across the divide. A taste of how it is possible to live together and respect one another. Some of them said they would not forgive, they would not forget, but they would move on. A bit along the lines John F. Kennedy paraphrased regarding the East-West differences in 1963: 
So, let us not be blind to our differences. But let us also direct attention to our common interests and to the means by which those differences can be resolved. And if we cannot end now our differences, at least we can help make the world safe for diversity. For, in the final analysis, our most basic common link is that we all inhabit this small planet. We all breathe the same air. We all cherish our children’s future. And we are all mortal.
I am grateful to the students for welcoming me and making me feel part of the group. Now I actually have come to realize why Anne enjoys teaching at AUC so much.

Sunday, May 4, 2014

Faleminderit from Marijn

The Truth of Kosovo


Let me introduce myself: my name is Marijn Mado, I am eighteen years old and still quite confused about what to study at AUC. This trip to Kosovo has been most amazing in any way and I would like to share the parts that particularly overwhelmed me.

Even though I already had felt some sort of shock at the sight of a burnt Serb church in Prizren on our first day, the first time it really hit me was a day later. Elizabeth from The Ideas Partnership told us that close to the place we would visit that day, Fushë Kosova, was the railroad where in the 1990s Serbs had deported Albanians in trains. While the Western world feared that some awful genocide was about to take place, the Serbs dumped the Albanians “unharmed” at the border of Macedonia. On the way to Fushë Kosova we passed a railroad and I wondered out loud whether this would have been the place of the deportation. Unexpectedly, the cab driver answered me and told me his family had been deported too. He was there when the soldiers came into his house in Pristina and told them they had five minutes to pack their backs. The soldiers deported them across the borders and burnt many houses, including those of the cab driver and his neighbors. Too soon, we arrived at Fushë Kosova and I got out of the cab and lost sight of the cab driver. For a full couple of minutes my head was spinning with the thought of the cabdriver, and how a mere history story had just become a shuddering reality.

Next, we took a look at Fushë Kosova itself, which includes the residences of the gypsy-like minorities Roma, Ashkalian and Egyptians. As we walked through the mud, houses in bad repair and piles of garbage, I realized that I had never been in a place that resembles slums more accurately. Small children walked around in the mud all day, and I was devastated imagining one growing up in these houses. I doubted whether a kid twice as intelligent as the average AUC student would ever make it to university under these circumstances. Fortunately, we also took a look at the brilliant initiative of The Ideas Partnership established in Fushë Kosova. The project provides not only education for the children, but also enables them to spend some time in a clean and colorful place every day.

Another initiative that inspired me was initiated by Kosovo Women’s Network. After the Kosovar war in 1999 the Women’s Network immediately hired a Serbian interpreter, even though they had only Albanian employees. This idea was implemented to make space for Serbians who might want to join later on. Indeed, only a year after the war Serbians joined their network.

Besides, I would also like to use this opportunity to thank my host family once more as well as our teachers Anne, Erik and Monika and our local guides Bardha and Enver for the great way they took care of us, their openness and expertise, and of course the laughter and gezelligheid. At some point, one representative of an organization we visited called you accidently our mentors rather than teachers. I think you all can be righteously called our mentors, for you have guided us and listened to us diligently. Next, I would like to thank my fellow-student for their bright questions, sharing this experience and the great fun! Last, I owe my thanks to all the Kosovars that have given us a warm welcome and unconditional hospitality. Faleminderit! After this week, I cannot but agree to Anne’s kind words to the Deputy Minister, “We all feel a bit Kosovar now.”

At last, all the people we encountered provide for a variety of different perspectives.
-       OHCHR: “We continue the dialogue with Serbia to normalize the situation.”
-       Opposition party Vetëvendosje: “It is unacceptable that the government of Kosovo is negotiating with Serbia, our enemy. Kosovar Albanians should claim their own self-determination, for we paid for this by blood.”
-       Serbian students of North-Mitrovica: “Albanians could just now cross the bridge and slaughter us anytime.”
-       A local: “I am very grateful for the KLA fighters that fought for the freedom of Albanians. If they had not done so, I would not be alive.”
-       Deputy Minister: “The declaration of independence in 2008 was not to liberate Albanians, but to protect human rights.”
-       Kosovo 2.0: “Human rights are not vertical. We cannot prioritize reconciliation over gender issues, as we need to talk about various issues.”
-       UNMIK: “Nothing equals peace. Peace is better than whatever is not peace.”
-       Serbian guide: “Serbs are afraid to cross the bridge leading to South-Mitrovica.”
-       Vetëvendosje: “Serbians are way better off in Kosovo than Albanians in Serbia.”
-       Serbian students of North-Mitrovica: “We don’t see Kosovo as a state at all.”
-       Vetëvendosje: “We cannot just create an identity and say: this is your identity just like that. Identity is created historically.”
-       Deputy Minister: “While the nation building is finished in other countries, we are privileged to shape our own country. We feel part of history as we are doing things for the first time.”
-       And the pictures of the missing people on Pristina’s grand square.


This trip has been very confusing. For me, qualitative fieldwork research is acquiring uncertain pieces of an immensely complicated puzzle. Everyone tells you something different, which is not uncommonly contradicting with previous statements, and it is difficult to grasp the structure of what is really going on.

The truth of Kosovo – you think you found it, but you really haven’t.
And we keep on searching.

Wednesday, April 30, 2014

Mirdita from Lia

Mirembrema!

A first introduction from one of the students in the Kosovo group. I am Lia den Daas, the only science major (physics) on board, half American half Dutch. It has been an amazing blessing to join all of you on this trip - thank you! I've just been soaking up as much information as I can the last days: such a joy for me :) I have learned so much by seeing so many different organisations, people, perspectives, opinions.
Some quick ideas from my side as a reflection on the trip so far..
As we progress and speak to more people + organisations, my understanding for Kosova, the conflict, the solutions, has really grown. I start to link different ideas together from different groups, see how they work together or really oppose. What has really struck me in this process of getting a better feel for Kosova, is the spirit and energy of the Kosovar (Albanians) we meet: the people who truly want to invest in this country. My own host mother - Buqe, Bardha's aunt - is an inspiring example of that. She works at a judicial office in Kosova (not sure exactly what it is) as a translator for Serbian - Albanian. She has experienced so much, but is still fighting and looking forward to a better future. To me she represents the strength of the Kosovars themselves, the drive they have for their own state. This same energy and drive I saw today in Vetevendosja. Especially fascinating I find the intertwining of this Kosovar strength with the UN/EU interventions.
From the few Albanian Kosovar perspectives I have heard, 
see a common theme: they think the UN/EU have failed/are failing, in at least some aspects. Although the Kosovars I have met acknowledge the fact that they needed the UN/EU, they strongly believe that these organisations should have done better. Personally, I cannot help but sympathize.. UNMIK did not seem to listen to the voices of the Kosovars who were fighting for their country for many years, as Kosovar Women's Network's (KWN) Igballe argued. According to her, the UN neglected the women's organisations that had been doing work inside the region of Kosova since before the war, arrogant in thinking that they know it all themselves. They simply did not think about women's organizations for example, on the assumptions that a Muslim, patriarch state could not possibly have established women's organisations. It has been extremely valuable for me to see the other side of the UN/EU missions: the reaction on the ground. The strength of the people seems to have been underestimated - which is a sad and crucial mistake. The people have not been listened to as they should have - and perhaps we have made the same mistake in our trip.. Vetevendosja is imagining a future with a functioning Kosova state: independent from UN/EU. Are the UN/EU focusing on that move forward enough? How could it improve? Are they corrupt, working together with the corrupted government - with Hashim Thaci as the master of thieves - simply for their own interests, as Buqe believes? 
So much food for thought...

-- credits to Thao for the picture, and I really really liked your post on facebook. It showed exactly the contrast I am reflecting on above. --



Again many many many thanks to the great organizers of this trip - Anne, Monika, Bardha, Enver - for helping me experience this. As I said, truly a blessing.
All the best, Lia

update:
In response to some message I received on facebook I removed a line from the photo above. All opinions and perspectives discussed on this blog do not reflect the opinion of AUC as an institution, or necessarily of the writer or the group. Although I believe showing multiple perspectives is very important, I do not wish to offend anyone. I hope our posts can encourage us to have productive and open discussions together about Kosovo.

Tuesday, April 29, 2014

Letter to AUC staff

 Hi faithful blog readers--Let me introduce myself. I'm the instructor at AUC who sort-of dreamed up this crazy trip. To give you a quick impression of what's we've been up to, here's an email I just sent to AUC:

Dear friends and colleagues,

I wanted to thank you for your best wishes, emails, kind words, and waving off as we left AUC on Friday. And I wanted you to know that we not only survived the 4-hour bus ride (in heavy traffic) to Brussels, and the flight to Prishtina, arriving safely in the dark Friday night, but we are thriving.

I wish you all were with us, because you would see what I do:
* The students watching out for each other—it began at the airport already. I call it the Litany of 19, as I went through the names and counted 19 every time we arrived somewhere (check-in, passport control, flight gate, luggage, bus…). But I soon learned that I wasn’t the only one checking to make sure we left no one behind. They have each other’s backs.
* Such a generous and kind group of people—if I had to generalize about our students, I would say they are so very curious and smart and kind and non-judgemental. The conversations I have been privileged to be part of have stretched my own mind and heart.
* We are having way too much fun! Laughter all the time.

So far, each day has been full of so many amazing impressions and discoveries, it’s hard to list them all. Friday night the students arrived at their Kosovar guest families. They were nervous beforehand. On the plane, a few were turning to their fellow passengers, asking if they were Albanian, then going over their vocabulary lists with them, learning Albanian pronunciation. Soon our entire section of the plane was laughing and learning. Yet they were nervous as we drew up in parts of Kosovo where it was apparent people are not so affluent as in  Amsterdam. Pot holes, coal smoke, cobbled together houses and old communist-style flat high-rises—all new.

But the next morning when we gathered at the NEWBORN sign in the city center (referring to the newborn state of Kosovo), they told me stories of the children in their homes, and the food, and smiles and friendship. No water between 9 p.m. and 6 a.m. is a new experience. Monika, my friend the terrorism expert who helped put together this trip, had told them all beforehand that hospitality is a precious gift here, and sure enough, our students have all been adopted!

We spent Saturday in a Roma camp, seeing the good work of an NGO, the Ideas Partnership, bridging education needs of Roma children. Hard. I felt like I was back in the townships of the Cape Flats outside of Cape Town. Mud and cardboard shacks, more mud on the streets, the men’s wheelbarrows which they use to gather salvageable garbage—usually their only source of income. Children with obvious physical problems with their eyes and skin. And local community leaders who are owning this project and have encouraged a vision for their children’s future. I saw our students playing with the children. Three of our guys were “arrested” by a group of small boys, who then put them against a wall and summarily “executed” them with a toy gun. Tough to watch this. But then our guys turned it around and grabbed the boys, throwing them over their shoulders to the delight of the crowd that had gathered.

Yesterday we visited a string of organizations: UN Development Program, a Kosovar think tank for policy and development, Office of the High Commissioner for Human Rights, the first openly gay lesbian, Migration, and a former student of Monika’s who is working here for an NGO. All these places have given us a wide variety of perspectives as we meet Albanian Kosovars who come from Albanian Muslim backgrounds, or Serb Kosovars who think this is still part of Serbia, or intermarried people who have a long string of hyphenated identities. People refer to the ethnic cleansing and missing bodies and burnt mosques with a mixture of relief and hope. Relief that is over, hope that they may prevent a repeat of the violence. One of our local guides and interpreters, Bardha, told me, "We will not forgive and we will not forget, but we will move on.”

At night we all eat together—riots of conversation and laughter. Last night the students dressed up and went clubbing after dinner finished at 11 p.m. Today we’re off to the PM’s office, so again we have more adventures around the corner. Am curious how long it will take before one of the students asks him about the charges brought against him re. organ trafficking.

The students are setting up a blog, where they can share their research diaries and photos. I’ll forward the link as soon as it’s live. Ivan is making a documentary for YouTube.

Full days and a full heart. My husband Erik, Monika, our two local guides Bardha and Enver, the students and I all send our warmest greetings to everyone back at AUC.

Kind regards, Anne

Peacebuilding in Action

From Amsterdam to Pristina
Welcome to the AUC-Kosovo-Blog! Students from Amsterdam University College together with experienced teachers in International Relations are currently exploring Kosovo and meeting representatives from different NGOs, think tanks and political parties. In this blog participants will share their impressions, thoughts and personal insights.

Students, Teachers & Guides - Kosovo 2014 

Stay tuned, first entries are coming soon!