By Rayan Vugdalic
This
trip was full of remarkable moments: people I met and places were discovered
that will leave a mark on me for many years. But there are two moments that, in
particular, I would like to reflect on. In both instances, I was for the first
time in my life othered because of who I was. Actually, not because of who I
was, but because of who someone else
decided I was. An identity I had not chosen was imposed on me.
The first instance
happened on Friday morning during the trip, when we were in northern Kosovo, in the Serbian area. I decided to go on a run in the morning, before we
would take the bus. I was supposed to go with Lisa but she forgot her shoes in
the bus, so I decided to go by myself anyway. After just 10 minutes, a police car
pulled over in front of me. A hand came out of the right-hand side window,
indicating me to come closer. A policeman, sitting in the passenger seat
started screaming at me in a language I did not understand. The other one,
behind the wheel, was silently staring at me. I tried to explain why I was
there, but no one spoke English. The man closest to me asked for my passport. Thankfully,
remembering Anne’s advice of the day before, I had decided to take my papers
with me before leaving for my run. After leafing through my passport for a
moment, the policeman pointed at me. French, he stated. Then, he read out loud
what was written. Amsterdam, he said. His tone got a little more inquisitive
when he read my family name. Bosnian, he asked? Well, not really. I mean, yes;
sort of, I suppose? He was not convinced.
As he started to check the authenticity of my passport by
looking at it through the light of the sun, he asked me for more details. He
made the universal sign of sleeping, by tilting his head and putting his hand
together under his cheek. I explained I was staying at a hotel, pointing at the
direction I came from. He did not seem very convinced. He grabbed his
walkie-talkie and started to read the numbers written in my passport. To whom,
I am not sure; a colleague at the police station, I presume?
After
a tense silence, he moved two fingers in the air, in a way that meant: “go on
before I change my mind”. I quickly reached for my passport and ran away. I
found out later that the policemen went to the hotel to corroborate my claims.
What was most troubling about this event was not the fact that I was being
questioned by police officers. It does happen everywhere, and I knew I was not
going to get in trouble simply because I had done nothing wrong. Rather, it was
the fact that I could tell in the body language, the facial expression, and the
questions asked by the policemen that there was something about who I was
(Bosnian? Foreigner? Student?) that they did not like. They had assumptions
about who I was because of what I looked like or what was written in my
passport. What it made me realize is how lucky I am that this virtually never happens to me. I have never been a
victim of discrimination, and no one ever forced an identity on me that I did
not choose. This slightly uncomfortable encounter gave me a minuscule glimpse
of what it means to not be part of the dominant, majority group. I am not
claiming to understand what it feels like to be victim of discrimination – I
don’t – but it gave me, at least, a more direct perspective on it than I
usually get, as a white, straight male living in Amsterdam.
A
similar episode took place in the Monastery of Gracanica. The monk giving us
the tour asked to talk to me in private. He asked me if I was white to which I
answered that I thought I was. When I mentioned my Lebanese, Serbian and
Bosnian roots he was very displeased. What upset him the most, however, was
that I was French. Coming from a secular country, he assumed that I was an
atheist. He concluded to me that I could therefore not understand the art that
was surrounding me. Another consequence of being French (or of my mixed
origins, I am not sure) was that I lacked a soul, he said. Most outrageously, his final
claim was that France, a secular country, would not win the World Cup – God is
not with you, he said. Of course, he was wrong – I might lack a soul or the
ability to appreciate frescos, but France will most definitely win the World Cup! Joke aside, this was a shocking moment because someone made assumptions
about who I was and about my worth as a human being based on my origins. It was
also very strange how he mixed ethnicity, religion, and football in the same
discussion. Most definitely a memorable experience!
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