By Lily Doolan Burke
The 15th of June began the way the 14th of June ended: in a nightclub.
The people of Peace Lab 2019 danced their hearts out on the opening night of a
huge Kosovan club. A mixture of Albanian and English music blasted from every
speaker. As a large group of rowdy foreigners it goes without saying we stood
out. It was interesting to see how the clubbing culture differed here from back
in Amsterdam. Many people in fact did not dance at all and we were told this
was not uncommon. Our group however most certainly did and also managed to
convince the students from the University of Pristina to join us as well,
something they admitted they usually did not do. Needless to say the morning
started late for everyone and real movement did not occur until the early
afternoon.
Immediately after what was meant to be breakfast but what can be
more accurately called lunch, everyone once again convened at the “NEWBORN”
sign in the centre of Pristina to reach our destination of the day, Gracanica. Gracanica
is home to a majority Serb population and as such this would be the first time
for all of us to leave the majority Albanian part of Kosovo. Our first
destination was the Gracanica Monastery where we met our extremely enthusiastic
tour guide who led us, his “friends”, into the Serb Orthodox church that stood
in the centre of a large well-tended lawn between the residences reserved for
both monks and nuns. The church inside was covered every inch in beautiful
frescoes depicting many Biblical events. But most interesting to me and I think
many of the other AUC students was the small door hidden away behind one of the
pillars of the building. Our guide emphasized that he could not, would not,
should not, show us what lay behind the door. Then, with theatrical flair, he
scurried away to go get the key. The door it turns out was hiding a small steep
staircase that led to a room above, where apparently devout worshipers and one
widowed queen of historical importance were walled in and lived there for 6
months (in the queen’s case) to 1 year ( in the case of many of the worshipers) . Our guide then ran off to prepare for festivities that would
take place the following day and we made our way to our next stop.
The
Serbian “MISSING” monument is sort of a play on the Albanian “NEWBORN” sign in the middle of
Prishtina, however it is a monument to all those still missing after being
taken by the KLA, Kosovo Liberation Army. Apparently it used to be heavily
guarded, however there was no security in sight while we were there, and in
fact the sign seemed in disrepair. Escaping from the heat, we piled into our
bus yet again and drove to the restaurant where we would have dinner. I feel I
can safely say that all of Peace Lab 2019 found the place to be beautiful. As
the sun began to set many of us sat in the grass watching the golden sunlight
play over the fields before us. It was an amazing way to end another eventful
day in Kosovo.
Lily, really enjoying this blog, what exciting days for you all. Thank you for sharing.
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