Frustrations and friends

By Katharine Broberg

Hey there, it’s Katharine, a second year student reporting from our hostel with questionable wifi. Peace Lab is almost coming to an end, as we are on the second-to-last day of meetings. I will tell you about our evening on Wednesday (19 June).

 

After visiting UNMIK and the mall, we were meant to have a meeting with other UN agencies, one being UNICEF’s Kosovo mission. UNICEF, a global leader in advocating for children's rights across 190 countries, including Kosovo, believes in providing every child, regardless of their background, with essential rights to survival, development, and protection, to reach their full potential. It was founded in 1946, and collaborates with diverse stakeholders to address prevalent challenges like poverty, violence, disease, and discrimination, guided by the Convention on the Rights of the Child. This organization relies solely on voluntary contributions from individuals, businesses, foundations, and governments to sustain its operations. It would have been very insightful to have a meeting with them, but when speaking with UNMINK we heard their team has been severely reduced, so we instead spent some time reflecting on their efforts in Kosovo in the UN bus, as the nation is still fighting poverty. Around 23% of children in Kosovo are living in poverty.

 

I feel eternally grateful for the UN bus because of its working air-conditioning. Personally, as a diabetic, this trip came with some complications. My insulin was not taking the 30-35 degree heat well, and coming into the bus and holding up my pen to the aircon was life-saving, literally. After giving a presentation on UNICEF to my peers in the bus, we arrived at the Field of Blackbirds, a beautiful site that had a monument about the Battle of Kosovo between Lazar and Murad I. As I felt a burn starting in the sun, I decided to go inside the tower and climb to the viewpoint. Inside there were many more plaques - my Bosnian friend translated some of the Serbian script on them. After spending another 20 minutes there, we then left and took the bus back to Newborn. Our hearts ached as we parted with the cool bus and stepped back into the sweltering heat. 

 

In Pristina we headed back to the hostel to get some rest before dinner, which was at a restaurant called Vendum. It had many plants inside, and was therefore quite humid, but we got some cold drinks and shared some of the mix of cuisines they offered. Considering it was day 9 of the trip, finding clean clothes was a challenge. So Ellen lent me her magical green top that always gets people compliments. Around 9pm, the lights dimmed to almost darkness, creating a vibe perfect for the live music that was about to take place on stage. 

 

We stayed for a while to enjoy the ambiance, and then headed to a bar, where we met up with our local friends to spend some more time together before the trip ends.

Drit and Olt are both from Pristina and made us feel so welcome whilst we were there, showing us fun places to eat, bars, and clubs. Getting to know them gave us a glimpse into the life of Kosovo’s youth. 

On our way back to the hostel from the bar, we came across one of the many street dogs we see in Kosovo on a daily basis. The very cute dog silently followed us whilst rolling rover to ask for belly rubs. Then we finished off the night with a nice cup of chai tea at the hostel. We chatted a bit more about the day, and we are now going to sleep, highly anticipating our meeting with the Ministry of Justice's department of European Integration tomorrow.

Behind the shadows of identity, a peaceful sun rises

By Ellen X. Oscar

The night before my assigned day (Wednesday 19 June) in Mitrovica was anything but peaceful. Our group of twenty-plus had split between two bare-bones motels in the Serbian-populated north of Kosovo, close to the Serbian border. Our accommodation, seemingly run by a family with young children, offered a candid glimpse into everyday life in this divided region. On our way back from picking up water and snacks, a voice called out "konichiwa" from behind a garden fence, a stark reminder of my visible identity as a Chinese-American from New York.

Seeking solace from the modest furnishings of our motel, we gathered on the terrace to smoke a cigarette and chat about our long journey. The night air was cool, a reprieve from the stifling heat of the day, and our hosts were friendly and curious, their eyes wide with the novelty of having foreign guests. They brought out chairs and even offered to make us coffee, despite the lateness of the hour. Their hospitality was earnest and generous, a stark contrast to the subtle discomfort that had been gnawing at me.

As we politely engaged with our hosts, my mind was partially elsewhere, preoccupied with gaining a Wi-Fi connection for researching our presentations on UNICEF and UNDP for the next day. The tragi-comic situation unfolded when the children began naming us by the countries they thought we were from. Our Italian friend was dubbed "India," our Lithuanian friend "Norway," and I was predictably called "China." When they discovered "India" was actually Senegalese-Italian, they enthusiastically listed off their "favourite black people," (ironically, Rosa Parks and MLK Jr., famous civil rights activists, were among them) adding to the awkwardness.

Despite my insistence that I was American, from New York (notably one of the most diverse places on Earth), they continued their guessing game, refusing to accept my identity. Frustration bubbled up inside me, a familiar feeling of being unseen, of my identity being reduced to a stereotype, or worse, something very far-removed from my own reality. In a bid to end the guessing, I told them I was adopted and couldn’t tell them my birth country, a small lie to halt their persistence. They seemed remorseful, but the damage was done. I retreated to my room, angry and disheartened. 

In the dim light of my room, I wrote furiously in my journal, grappling with the realisation that no matter what I do, I cannot escape the color of my skin or the shape of my eyes. People not only disbelieve me but insist on telling me who I am. This encounter mirrored our meeting the following morning with UNMiK in Mitrovica, where the organisers were reticent and evasive, leaving us frustrated and dissatisfied. Despite their emphasis on bringing opposing views together, they offered no real answers, and we left feeling condescended to.

Reflecting on the evening's events throughout the UNMiK meeting, I felt a profound sense of remorse for not being brave enough to continue the conversation the night before. I had stormed off from a difficult encounter, just like the UNMiK seemed to wish they could do. My young conversation partners were likely just curious kids, unfamiliar with someone who looked like me and called themselves "American." It was an opportunity to show them that Americans come in all colors and creeds, but I lacked the patience and courage to engage.

In peacebuilding, recognition is vital for reconciliation, as our professor often reminds us. In this moment, we failed to recognize each other, and it felt like a personal failure of peace on my part. Engaging with those kids might have sparked a hope for better understanding, yet I doubted its fruitfulness. This is the harsh truth of our profession at times — battling with the reality that not every conversation will bear fruit.

As the day unfolded, a glimmer of hope appeared. In a food court, my group and I interviewed a Serbian and an Albanian sharing a meal of hamburger and pizza together. This simple act of coexistence contrasted sharply with the previous night's tension. Their casual interaction was a small, yet powerful, testament to the possibility of peace and understanding... and the all-American meal of pizza and hamburgers.

We returned to Pristina, the city's familiar embrace providing comfort after a day of emotional turmoil. After a lovely meal, we met friends from the city and shared our reflections. 

The warmth of their company and the vibrant energy of Pristina reminded me why we were here. This trip is about learning to overcome our shortsightedness and turning unproductive conversations into fruitful ones.

While I struggled with confronting my reality in Mitrovica, the day's end offered a reminder of the potential for understanding and connection. Peacebuilding is not a linear journey but a series of moments, some challenging and others heartening. It is in these moments of struggle and reflection that we find the seeds of peace.

As I lay in bed that night, the echoes of the day's encounters reverberated in my mind. The frustration and anger gradually gave way to a deeper understanding. Peace, I realised, is not an endpoint but a continuous process of engagement and recognition. It requires patience, empathy and the courage to stay in difficult conversations.

The sun of peace may rise slowly, but it begins with the small, often uncomfortable steps we take to bridge the gaps in understanding. 

Behind the shadows of identity, there is a light that can illuminate our shared humanity. This journey in Kosovo, with all its challenges, is a testament to that enduring truth.

UNMIK

By Lila Burkle

Wednesday 19 June started off with breakfast at the motel near the lake in the north, where we stayed only one night in. Half of the group went to another motel nearby ,the night before so it was also the time we met them again. Right after, we hopped on the UN bus that escorted us back through the streets of Mitrovica. We headed to the United Nations Interim Mission in Kosovo (UNMIK) regional office. Greeted by UN staff, we waited for the deputy head of mission, then moved into the conference room for the meeting.

For 25 years, UNMIK has been responsible for the peacekeeping operation in Kosovo, in accordance with the legitimacy conferred by UN Security Council Resolution 1244, a sentence they made sure to repeat as students asked about their mission’s achievements. As a pillar of international administration, UNMIK is working alongside the EU, the UNHCR and the OSCE to re-establish institutions in a context of post-conflict state collapse. As we studied the organization’s role in the reconciliation process at the beginning of the month, we were all eager to ask about the specifics of how they promote democracy and human rights in the region. However, the group left the meeting quite frustrated and confused as the representatives struggled to address questions deemed too ambitious. Many felt their questions were ignored or dismissed, as the spokesperson suggested that they should ask them at a higher level, specifically at headquarters in Pristina.

Initially intervening in a country deprived of the rule of law and where the state institutions are relatively weak, UNMIK inevitably imposed themselves, causing a public opinion not always favorable to their intervention. Most of the time, the support of the public opinion is not unanimous in such contexts. Therefore, we wanted to explore this aspect to get a deeper understanding of how the organization is perceived in the region. However, the deputy head of mission couldn't really describe any negative perceptions or challenges that they had encountered. Actually, the only flaw that was mentioned was the organization’s excessive competitiveness due to its attractiveness. Their ambiguity made us skeptical about the efficiency of their mission.

 

Following all the meetings we had during the week, we noticed that civil society organizations were the main factors driving change in Kosovar society. As I was filming a documentary with other students from the group during the whole trip, I also engaged with many young people on the streets who shared that they don’t really see Kosovo as divided, highlighting an urge to move on from the conflict and its aftermath.

 

We finished the day by having dinner with the whole group, as we do every evening, then having a drink in a local bar to reflect on this eventful day and share some last moments with the group before our last day in Kosovo.

Having impact

By Paola Michel

On 18 June the group met at 9am at our usually rally point, one of the cafés in front of Newborn. Some of us ordered coffees while presentations were being held, and we then got on the UN bus to Mitrovica. I have to say the space, between the rows in this bus had to be the tiniest I had ever seen, getting to the end of it with a backpack was quite the challenge.

We met with New Social Initiative (which you can read all about in Novara and Mathilde's blogposts) from 11 to 12 and then dispersed into groups for lunch. The braver half of the group walked around the city while the rest sat in the shade in an attempt to escape the midday heat. I had a delicious iced coffee and a less delicious burger while I went over my presentation one last time. I'm not sure what was in that steak and I'm absolutly certain I don't want to know (if prompted, the vegetarians on the trip would rightly point out the cognitive dissonance at play here). 

The group then met next to the "Peace Bridge" in Mitovica which separates the northern and southern sides of the city. Crossing this bridge was a moment of realisation. It looked like any regular bridge to us, yet was a physical representation of the divide and tensions between Kosovo Serbs and Kosovo Albanians in Mitrovica. On the Albanian side, under the shade of a tree, I gave a presentation on Community Building Mitrovica, an NGO which works towards inter-ethnic cooperation and dialogue in the city. The group then went to the NGO's office, where we were received by two staff members who answered all of our questions and made the meeting into a lively conversation. They were so enthusiastic about their work, and their organisation was evidently one that had an impact on the lives of the people of Mitrovica, especially the youths.

After this meeting, the group was off to the most beautiful lake. I could not provide information about the ride as I fell asleep seconds after buckling my seatbelt. When I woke up the bus was arriving by a lake surrounded by trees, which reminded me of the landscapes that I grew up in, in the south of France. After a lot of doubts as to whether it was safe to jump into the water from a concrete platform that stood by the lake, some of us carefully went into the water. 

It was breathtaking. The water was a beautiful stade of green, same as the nails that Alice got done this week in Pristina. Six of us set our sights on the other side of the lake and swam to it. A few minutes later, six very out of breath Peace Lab students made it to the other side. We noticed a house on the beach, with a Serbian flag and Serbian license plate as decorations, which made us realise first hand the nationalistic sentiments present in the region.

After we came back to side of the lake with the restaurant, the owner offered to take the group on his boat. He took us around the lake and we were able to jump from it and swim around some more. After this surprise, the group lounged some more by the lakeside and headed up to the restaurant for a barbecue-style dinner. We then took a bit more time admiring the lake and skipping stones before going off into two hostels where we spent the night. 

This day was high in emotions for me as it is the day I finally submitted my Capstone, but the commitment and enthusiasm of the people we met as well as the swim in the turquoise water made me forget all about it.

Building bridges of understanding

By Mathilde Paquet

Dearest gentle reader,

Dobardan, as they say in Serbian, and welcome to today’s blog! I’m currently writing on Tuesday the 18th of June, on a truly special day for the group. Indeed, as we groggily packed our bags and rushed out the door, no one could have expected what this day would bring. We arrived in Mitroviça, which, as explained by Novara, is divided between a Serbian Kosovar community in the North, and an Albanian Kosovar community in the South, who oftentimes never get the chance to interact or even cross the river separating them! Just getting to see the Peace Bridge built to unite this city and the division between these communities was really impressive.

We started off our busy day by meeting the New Social Initiative, based in North Mitrovica, but which operates on building community exchanges and trust building between both Kosovar Serbs and Kosovar Albanians within the city. We were welcomed by four members of the organization, who elaborated on the organization’s trust-building agenda across Mitrovica, focusing on creating job opportunities connecting the two communities across the city and fostering community. I had found an article about one of the project managers for the program, Adelina Ismajli in the Kosovo 2.0 magazine while preparing my presentation, so I was really happy to hear more about her personal background and participation in the organization.

After the meeting, we headed for lunch to a restaurant next to the special river, gazing at the many birds and peaceful scenery, as well as the police lining the bridge under which graffiti against Serbs and Albanians existed. We had a second meeting with the organization, Community Building Mitrovica. After that we hopped on the bus, driving through rural landscapes in the North of Kosovo and towards the border with Serbia. 

I found myself sleeping for a bit, then daydreaming away as I rested. Suddenly, we emerged from the concrete highway over a twisting road and saw across from us an immense horizon. Words cannot describe how spectacular this scenery was. From the splendid blue and green colors of the water to the rolling and waving structures of the hills, the landscape felt like a welcome home. We passed a couple of bridges, holding our breath in a game to see who could hold it the longest. Really I feel that it was a way to take in the beauty we were seeing. Among all the usual laughter, gleeful faces started appearing, sprouting as we remembered our child selves. 

We ended up on the shore of Lake Gazivode. We all grabbed our swimsuits and rushed down the hill towards the turquoise-green water, gleaming as I have never seen from the minerals at its bottom. While some of us stayed on the shore to tan and take in the view, others headed down and began swimming to the other side, splashing each other and racing towards the other shore. 

After this bit of exercise, we arrived on the shore next to a house with a Serbian flag and Serbian license plate branded accross its roof. What an interesting contrast to the perspectives held just a few dozen kilometers away, back in South Mitroviça. This moment came as a real realisation for me: in my time in Pristina, I had started forging bonds with the Kosovar Albanian side of the story, understanding their need for independence and their political views. Yet here I was confronted with the entirely opposite view, and I could not help but notice the prejudice that was already present in me against Kosovar Serbs. From this point on, I understood the point of this trip. As students, indeed, we are here not to give opinions or make moral judgments about the situation in Kosovo, but to see (very literally) the divisions and different melding perspectives which interact in this issue. I feel that this journey has helped me foster a position that stands on its own: one of striving for genuine understanding. 

Once we got back to the other shore, the owner of the restaurant took us on his boat across the lake. We jumped in the water a few more times from the boat, our favorite cheerleader Julia catapulting from the deck. After much laughter, we settled into a daze as we came back, listening to some snazzy music, as Oscar would say. 

Back on the shore we enjoyed a very non-vegetarian barbecue at the traditional restaurant, soaking up the view. In the bus I stared out into the night sky, gazing up at the moon and writing a bit in my journal. What a day, I thought, what a day. We came to the hostel, settled ourselves in our rooms, and as I fell asleep, I dreamt of the lake’s stunning emerald gleam. 

Brave individuals from both sides

By Novara Bazzi

The morning started early, perhaps a bit too early after a fun night of exploring Pristina with the group. Luckily, we had an hourlong ride in the UN bus (finally airco!!) ahead of us in which we could recharge our energy as we were making our way to the impressive city of Mitrovica. This city is located north of Pristina and is typically known for its unrest due to persisting ethnic divisions and tensions. Last year, these tensions rose to such a point that the Peace Lab class was unable to visit for safety reasons. This year, however, we were lucky enough to go, explore the city and meet with the impressive civil society organizations New Social Initiative (NSI) and Community Building Mitrovica (CBM).

When I say that ethnic divisions persist in the city of Mitrovica, I mean this in a literal sense. In 2013, the city officially split into two separate municipalities: South Mitrovica with an Albanian majority and North Mitrovica with a Serb majority. These municipalities are divided by the Ibar River, which can be crossed via the so-called ‘Peace Bridge.’ The name is ironic, as the bridge stands as a symbolic division between the two communities; a bridge that, in practice, remains uncrossed. This division became most apparent when we paid our first visit to the organization NSI. We were greeted by a team of four young peacebuilders, from both Albanian and Serb backgrounds, who work together, striving towards reconciliation in this divided region.

One of the Albanian women in this multiethnic NSI team lives in the South of Mitrovica among the Albanian majority, but she commutes to the office in the North every day. She shared that attending her job interview a few years ago was the first time she had ever crossed the bridge, which truly made me realize the deep divide between these two communities in Mitrovica. It is symbolic that she now crosses this bridge regularly to reach her work, which focuses on building bridges between the Serb and Albanian communities in Mitrovica. Naturally, after hearing about the infamous bridge and its symbolic importance for both communities, we visited it following the meeting. To be entirely candid, I did not realize we had already reached the bridge until our beloved translator Enver brought it to my attention. It is a small bridge over a modest body of water, making it fascinating to consider how such an unassuming structure can carry so much emotional weight. The fact that we could cross this bridge without much thought underscores a certain privilege.

Our visit to Mitrovica was significant in my understanding of Kosovo’s society and the interactions between the different communities. While working on group projects related to post-war society and peacebuilding, I had spoken with many people in Pristina, the capital of Kosovo, about the ethnic divisions and how it influences their lives. In preparation for our time in Kosovo, we delved deeply into its history and the ongoing post-war challenges. We learned that the society remains deeply divided, and reconciliation between Serbs and Albanians is fraught with difficulty. However, during our interviews, these divisions did not seem evident in people's daily lives. Many interviewees did not grasp what we meant by deep ethnic tensions, prompting us to question our previous assumptions. Had society perhaps moved on from the war? Had acceptance and reconciliation finally taken root?

However, upon arriving in Mitrovica and meeting with the NSI team, it became clear that this was not the case. While tensions may have eased in Pristina, with its Albanian majority, in Mitrovica, where both Serbian and Albanian populations reside, hostilities remain evident. The NSI team explained that they are often seen as traitors by their own communities for working with the other side and must take serious precautions when tensions rise to ensure their safety and that of their families. This meeting made me realize that Kosovo still has a long way to go to become a well-functioning and accepting society for all ethnic backgrounds. More importantly, however, it showed me that, despite these hostilities, there are brave individuals from both sides who refuse to let ethnic boundaries define them, instead working towards creating a unified society.

On that positive note, we headed to the mountains after our meetings in Mitrovica to swim in the beautiful Gazivode lake near the Serbian border and had dinner at a lovely family’s restaurant. It was a wonderful way to unwind after an intensive yet hopeful day in Mitrovica.

June 17th part 2: From Kurti to the Court

By Ousman Mbengue

During our meeting with the Prime Minister Albin Kurti, which Ben discussed yesterday, we also had the opportunity to talk to his Advisor on Community Affairs, Elizabeth Gowing: she was able to answer our questions related to her specific field of work. 

Gowing is an educator, story-teller and activist who moved to Kosovo in 2006. Once here, she funded the charitable organization The Ideas Partnership, to empower and support people in need in Kosovo in the fields of education, health and social welfare. She is the owner of the Sapune social enterprise, which employs local women to create hand-made products using traditional filigree, and she has written five travel books, of which four are related to Kosovo. In these books she tells stories of individual people she met in the country, and explores the traditions and social characteristics of Kosovo’s society through story-telling. She has also won several awards for her work: in 2016, she was presented with the Mother Theresa medal by the president of Kosovo for her humanitarian efforts, and in 2017 she was named a “Point of Light” for her volunteering work by British PM Theresa May. She also won the ‘Joans of Kosovo Award for Social Inclusion and Justice’ in 2023 for her work with Roma, Ashkali and Egyptian communities. Therefore, she was very qualified to help us understand the inner workings of the current government of Kosovo and their work to support minority rights within the country.

After the meeting ended, we decided to sit down for lunch at Soma, right in front of the government building we had just left, and I caught the opportunity to text my local friends, Drit and Olti, to play some basketball in the afternoon. Now, the friendship I developed with these guys in the few days I was in Pristina deserves more than a quick mention in this blogpost: it was the best thing that happened to me on this trip, and it changed the whole experience for the better. 

I met Drit on the plane from Vienna, when he tapped me to ask me what a group of students like us was going to do in his home town of Pristina. We clicked instantly, thanks to his friendliness and a common interest for basketball, and we quickly exchanged Instagram handles and promised to contact each other. We met again on Friday by coincidence, as we were walking into a bar to watch the game between Germany and Scotland: clearly, it was fate that we had to become friends. There I also met Olti for the first time, and we also clicked, thanks to his love for cooking and Italian old songs. As we had previously talked about basketball, and since Oscar and Ben had bought a ball, we agreed to go to a court and put some shots up when we had the time in-between activities. Fast-forward to today, and we finally had the time to go play. After some searching on Google Maps to locate a viable court, we decided to go join them on a court near the center. We were joined by another local who was just passing by and saw us play, so we played a couple of 3v3s. 

After forty minutes, though, the heat got the best of us and we sat down and started talking. Olti was incredibly kind and eager to share his traditional recipes with me, which was particularly useful for my group’s research on food as a peacebuilding tool. He is Albanian, but was born in Serbia, right across the border from Kosovo, so his perspective of both cuisines was unique. He showed us the traditional method of making flia, which includes layering spoonfuls of batter in the shape of petals inside a large pot. After taking some pictures to remember the day, which you can find in the blogpost, we agreed to meet up later after dinner again. 

We quickly went home and got ready for dinner, which we had at Tiffany's, a small restaurant with local dishes and traditional cooking. We had a buffet-style dinner and had the chance to taste local goulash, dolma (vine leaf rolls) and baklava. After dinner the whole group stopped by a bar to watch the game between France and Austria. Drit and Olti joined us at the end of the match, and we decided to go to a more relaxed bar to finish the night. Their friend Ylli also joined us: his name means star, and all his siblings have sky-related names too. They showed us café Dit’ e Nat’ (Day & Night), which had great music and a lovely cat. Drit and Olti asked us about life in Amsterdam, and we asked them about life in Kosovo. At the end of the night, we all felt like we knew something more about each other. We also got some tips on places to visit and restaurants to eat at, and they were so kind to walk us back to our hostel when the bar closed around midnight. 

I wish I could write an entire blogpost entry about these guys: they honestly deserve a book’s worth of thanks for all the kindness they showed us as guests in their home country, and they made us feel welcome with their warmth. I can go home happy knowing I have made some real friends in Pristina, and since I know they will be reading this, I would like to thank Drit and Olti again for the time and memories we shared in Kosovo. Faleminderit shume!

From the left: Olti, Drit and Me

June 17th – From the Court to Kurti

By Ben Kiem

Today was a day many of us had eagerly anticipated: our meeting with the Prime Minister of Kosovo, Albin Kurti. But before we delved into questioning 

Kurti’s government and his previous life, we had the early part of the day entirely to ourselves. While some chose to catch up on much-needed sleep, Julia, Oscar, and I decided to spend the morning playing basketball. Also, I almost forgot to introduce myself - how rude of me - I am Ben, a third-year student currently enjoying the last days of my AUC life. I'm writing this after an intense day, riding in the back of a very shaky UN bus, but that’s a story for another blog.

 

Back at the court, we played for around two hours, where I blocked Oscar more than once. As the day grew warmer, we decided to stop playing and headed back to change into our formal attire - after all, meeting the Prime Minister is not an everyday event. Dressed in our Sunday-best, we made our way to the government building, where the stakes became clear as we passed through airport-level security measures, including a metal detector. In the meeting room, we sat in seats we could only assume to be usually reserved for important people, waiting for the Prime Minister’s arrival. As the minutes passed, the mix of nervousness and excitement grew.

When Kurti entered the room, we all stood up. After his introduction, we were given the opportunity to ask a handful of questions. Unfortunately, I can’t spill too much information about the contents of our conversation with the Prime Minister, as all information is to be kept confidential per Chatham House Rules. After about 20 minutes, Kurti had to leave, giving us the opportunity to address questions to Elizabeth Gowing, the PM's Advisor on Community Affairs and Bierta Avdili, Political Advisor to the PM. 

 

After the meeting, some of the groups met with Anne to talk about their projects, and a bunch of us grabbed lunch at a place where we had had a great dinner a few days ago. The rest of the day saw more basketball, more great food, and some clubbing. But more about this later from Ousman. 

Prizren, Albania and Bosnian memories

By Demir Viden

Today (Saturday 15 June) started earlier than usual for me because I had a presentation to give to my group about our short trip planned for the day. Many people say that Prizren is the most beautiful city in Kosovo, and I can confirm that it truly is. We began our day at 10 a.m. at our usual meeting spot—the Newborn monument. After a quick lemonade, I briefed my group on Prizren’s most prominent sights and provided some historical facts. Right on schedule, our bus arrived, and we were on our way, reaching our destination by noon.

We disembarked near the Ismet Jashari Kumanova statue, 

and our guide immediately led us to the League of Prizren.

This monumental complex is rich with artifacts that offer fascinating insights into the late Ottoman period and the Albanian struggle for independence and sovereignty. It reminded me a lot of the Svrzina Kuća in Sarajevo, with its small stocks, wooden-framed 'pendžeri' (windows), and portraits of historical figures from the Ottoman era.

Stepping into the old house felt like traveling back in time to when the prominent leaders of Albania gathered to discuss the future of their country. But for me, it was more than just a historical journey—it brought back early memories of my life in Sarajevo.

We crossed the Stone Bridge and entered the old city, where we visited the Sinan Pasha Mosque. 

As I walked, I slipped into a daydream—the Stone Bridge transformed into Princip’s Bridge, the old town morphed into Baščaršija, and the Sinan Pasha Mosque became Begova Mosque. It was the same path I used to take every day to school in Sarajevo. The mosque was stunning from the outside, and its interior design was a stark contrast to the icon-filled interiors of monasteries. There was even a special balcony that high-ranking officials used back in the day, according to our guide, something I had never seen before.

Next, we wandered over to the Church of Saint Đorđe Runović. While it wasn’t as magnificent as the Gračanica Monastery we visited a couple of days ago, it was still impressive. Both of these structures are nestled in the heart of Prizren’s old city, which retains its old Ottoman architecture and layout. The old bridges connecting different parts of the city over its beautiful river were picture-perfect. It felt like home.

Despite the heat, we decided to climb up the road that leads to the 11th-century Prizren Fortress.

It was quite an adventure. The climb was steep and the road a bit rough, but the panoramic view from the top was totally worth it.

The fortress itself was a strategic spot back in the day, offering a vantage point to spot any approaching trouble. Halfway up, we had a wild encounter—a boar darted out of the forest, chased by a dog that had been tagging along with us. It added a bit of excitement to our trek!

By then, I was very hungry and eager to see how Prizren's food compared to that in Baščaršija. Our guide recommended a place in the old city, though it wasn’t his first choice since most places were closed for Eid. It was a bit odd that on Eid there weren't many people outside, but it must have been because it was midday, a time when families gather at their homes for lunch. Craving a taste of home, I ordered ćevapi (meat sausages). The waiter surprisingly knew Bosnian, and we bonded quickly, so I helped him make the order for the whole Peace Lab group. Later, I overheard him speaking Turkish as well. But that’s no surprise, as Prizren is a melting pot of cultures. The majority of the population is Albanian, but there are also Bosniaks, Turks, Serbs, and Gorani ethnic minorities . The ćevapi were good, I must say, but nowhere close to those in Sarajevo. Some might say I’m biased, but I believe many would agree with me.

After the meal, most of us were pretty tired, but we knew we had one more special stop planned. We headed southwest toward the Albanian border and made our way to Lake Black Drin.

We had dinner at the Lugina e Drinit Bar Restaurant, which was an absolute treat. The hosts were incredibly friendly, and they had these three beautiful peacocks wandering around. The restaurant had lovely view of the lake and the surrounding nature, reminding me of the southwestern part of Herzegovina, particularly Jablaničko Lake. We even got to swim and sunbathe, which was the perfect way to relax after a day of exploring. 

And the food—oh man, the food! I had the best lamb ribs and oven-baked mushrooms I’ve ever tasted. Everyone else seemed pretty happy with their plates as well! Our professor certainly knows where to find great restaurants. The trip back to Prishtine was mostly quiet as everyone, myself included, succumbed to a food coma after a long and exhausting day. We arrived back at our hostel just before midnight. Tomorrow is a very important day, we are meeting the Prime Minister, time to go to sleep!

Saturday 15 June

By Salomėja Siparytė

 

Hi hi, we’re halfway through our trip to Kosovo now. My name is Salomėja, and I am a second-year student focusing on International Relations at AUC. I will tell you about our little chill day we had on Saturday. Thanks to our coordinators, we had a chance to sleep in, and only met to catch the bus to Gračanica at around noon. Gračanica was the main trip in our agenda for the day, but the day was, as always, full of pleasant surprises. Gračanica is a city mainly populated by Kosovo Serbs, located just 10 kilometers away from Priština, where we are staying. Despite its proximity, it has a distinct vibe, all signs were suddenly Cyrillic and people were chatting in Serbian, instead of Albanian.

 

After enjoying a delicious Greek salad, goulash, and baklava at Hotel Gračanica, we had some time to relax in the surrounding nature, which was much needed after a night out. From the hotel, we were taken to see the Prthodox monastery in the city, which has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2006. The monastery’s unique design and spectacular frescoes inside left a lasting impression, although we were not allowed to take pictures of the interior. Our guide shared many interesting facts, theories, and conspiracies about the frescoes, including how one depicts hell and the other heaven, and how men often choose to sit in front of the hell scene. We also witnessed people coming in to pray, which added a profound dimension to the experience. I don’t think I’ve ever been to a place like this before, and it’s definitely worth seeing.

Afterwards we went to see the “MISSING” monument, which is just down the street from the monastery. Just as Priština has the NEWBORN sign, Gračanica has a sign like this, but it spells out MISSING. It’s a memorial dedicated to the Serb victims missing since the Kosovo War. It has pictures and names of missing persons, serving as a public acknowledgment of their absence and a call for answers. It showcases the ongoing impact of the conflict on the local community, as well as a reminder that war crimes were committed on both sides.

 

Later, we boarded the bus once again and headed to Ulpiana, an ancient Roman urban settlement with a rich history dating back to the 1st century. Despite experiencing an earthquake, the site was rebuilt, only to be ravaged again. Initially, I thought I was fooled, as I only saw a small part of the ancient Roman urban site at first. However, we soon discovered there was much more to explore. It was surprising to see people currently living among the ruins, blending the past and present in a unique way.

 

And that’s how the learning part of the day wrapped up. Soon enough, we were taken back to Priština and went our separate ways. After freshening up, some of us took naps, had dinner, or simply relaxed. However, it was the Albania-Italy football game that brought us all together again. The first five minutes were extremely intense, and the unexpected goal for the Albanians sent the entire city into an excited frenzy. It was a great way to end our Saturday, filled with both educational and fun adventures.

Favorite day so far

By Chynna Bong A Jan

Hi everyone! We are already a few days into the trip now and I will be taking you along on my favorite day so far!

On Friday 14 June we had an amazing meeting with Adelina Berisha from the Kosovo Women’s Network. I was really looking forward to this meeting ever since researching the organization and it did not disappoint. 

The organization’s aim is to support, protect and promote the rights and the interests of women and girls throughout Kosovo, regardless of their political beliefs, religion, age, level of education, sexual orientation and ability. With over 140 member organizations and four current programs, KWN is a powerful force for change. 

Adelina herself is the Program Manager for Addressing Gender Based Violence and it was really inspiring to hear her stories and all the achievements of the organization. Regarding this program, KWN successfully pushed for the inclusion of gender-based violence in criminal law, but their impact extends far beyond that. They are active in areas such as education, economic empowerment, and politics, making a profound difference in many facets of society. People like Adelina are incredibly brave, working tirelessly to achieve gender equality in a post-conflict society. As a woman, this resonated deeply with me and it has made me reflect on how I can contribute to similar causes.

It is really incredible to see such a grassroots organization flourish and it complemented the EULEX meeting that we had earlier that day, which provided a top-down perspective. This combination highlighted how both grassroots initiatives and institutional efforts play different yet crucial roles in peacebuilding and conflict resolution.

Around 4pm, the meeting concluded and then we had free time to work on our projects or take some time for ourselves. It was a nice, long day, but the day was far from over. 

In the evening we went to a lovely restaurant called Soma, which had fantastic vegetarian options (great for me!). 

After dinner, it was time for a long awaited event: the start of the Euros 2024. We wanted to go to a huge public viewing to watch the opening game, but unfortunately they were still setting up the giant screen due to a delayed license. Nevertheless, we still got to watch the game in a cozy bar! One of the project groups focuses on the role of football as a peacebuilding tool and how it relates to nationalism. Watching the game together reminded us of the unifying power of sports, but it will be interesting to see how their project develops as the tournament progresses.

We ended the day by exploring Pristina’s nightlife, which was a great way to unwind and experience the vibrant culture of the city and engage with the music scene, which is another theme of one of the projects. I am very excited for the following days to come and see how various elements—be it grassroots activism, institutional support, or even sports and music—can contribute to peacebuilding. 

Until we meet again

By Anna Házas

“The greatest goal here in earthly life,

Is to be human always, in every circumstance”

• János Arany

The sentence above was my grandmother’s favourite quote. She passed away just this morning. She was a real force of nature, she lived through the Second World War, communist Hungary, the loss of her son and long months of chemotherapy. Yet somehow, she always managed to live by these exact words. 

My name is Anna Házas, I am a third year IR and political science student, and this is our third day in Kosovo on the Peace Lab field trip (Friday 14 June). Today, as I was living through the conflicting emotions of excitement, pain, curiosity, grief and joy, I was constantly reminded of the strength of community and friendship, and the importance of honesty, vulnerability and courage.

While I am not sure where we left off at the last blog entry, I would like to begin with this morning. After leaving the Pristina Beer and Wine Festival yesterday night, we were expected return to the scene of the act just 10 hours later. We gathered at the NEWBORN monument at 9.30, but we made sure to pick up some burek for breakfast on the way. This is how our mornings usually start here, we always meet at a café by the monument for the pre-meeting presentations, to make sure we enter all appointments prepared. Today, I was one of the lucky ones to present. Our morning meeting today was with EULEX, the European Union’s Rule of Law Mission to Kosovo. Their headquarters is located on the outskirts of Pristina, so our local guide, Enver, organized taxis for us. It was in said taxi when I received the call about my grandmother’s passing. I could not help it, but I broke down crying. Luckily, Ousman and Oscar were there to comfort me. As we arrived to the EULEX compound, I had barely stopped crying, but I was determined to pull myself together and contribute to the discussions we were about to have. Anne offered that I could go home with her to the hostel or even back to Budapest, but I decided against it. If there is one thing my grandmother taught me was that you should always finish what you started, and the world will not stop just because you would want it to. 

Once everyone arrived we made our way into the office building where they took our passports and exchanged them for visitor passes. They briefed us on the rules of the discussion: no pictures and no recordings. I went into the EULEX meeting with a critical mindset. After learning about the organization in class, as well as taking a deeper dive into their mandate and activities, I was curious to hear the official perspective. The meeting was held by the EULEX Press and Public Information Officer, who explained the organization’s framework and current activities. After the initial presentation, the meeting turned into a discussion, where we got to ask questions and raise our concerns. As the days pass, our group dynamic is more and more natural, which also manifests in the way we ask questions at meetings. When someone does not get a clear answer, one of us usually follows up with another question, respectfully pressing our hosts to respond. Today at EULEX we asked about the organization’s structure and the separation of powers, their future after their mandate expires just 365 days from now, and their public perception and civil feedback mechanisms. If you want to read about their experience of our meeting, please see their LinkedIn post here: https://www.linkedin.com/posts/eulex-mission-in-kosovo_delighted-to-host-today-20students-from-activity-7207320811420930048-dcgh?utm_source=share&utm_medium=member_ios

After the meeting we took taxis back to the city centre, where the majority of us decided to sit down at Corner Café and have lunch together. This charming bistro on the Mother Theresa Boulevard has become somewhat a usual spot for us. After lunch the group scattered around the city to take a walk, grab coffee, eat ice cream or just enjoy the sunny weather before heading into our second meeting of the day, which Chynna will tell you more about.

In the afternoon, following out meeting with the Kosovo Women’s Network, some of us went back to the hostel. I, for instance, took a well-needed nap. After waking up we started getting ready to go to dinner at Soma. Eating dinner together every day has become one of my favorite programs of this trip, and today’s restaurant was particularly good. After dinner we all left to find a spot to watch the Germany-Scotland football game, which I enjoyed with a side of margarita. The last hours of the day passed by quickly with good conversations, mediocre but cheap drinks and lots of laughter. Finally, we ended the night at Zanzi Bar, where we danced, sang, and potentially suffered minor hearing damage, before retreating to our hostel for the night.

Grief is weird, it comes and goes in waves. But unfortunately I have quite the experience with it by now. What I have learned, however, is that grief and happiness can coexist. While emotions will flood me numerous times in the following days, I am beyond thankful to be experiencing this trip with all of you! So Katharine, Chynna, Julia, Alice, Anna, Ousman, Demir, Paola, Shree, Oscar, Stefanía, Ben, Laloue, Salomèja, Leonor, Mathilde, Lila, Ellen, Novara, and Lola, thank you for making me happy these days!

And about my grandmother… I take her mindset with me for the rest of this trip, as it reminds me of the human side of conflict: The loss and the trauma, the shared experiences, and the importance of recognizing and respecting each other’s humanity and dignity.