Saturday, June 22, 2024

Prizren, Albania and Bosnian memories

By Demir Viden

Today (Saturday 15 June) started earlier than usual for me because I had a presentation to give to my group about our short trip planned for the day. Many people say that Prizren is the most beautiful city in Kosovo, and I can confirm that it truly is. We began our day at 10 a.m. at our usual meeting spot—the Newborn monument. After a quick lemonade, I briefed my group on Prizren’s most prominent sights and provided some historical facts. Right on schedule, our bus arrived, and we were on our way, reaching our destination by noon.

We disembarked near the Ismet Jashari Kumanova statue, 

and our guide immediately led us to the League of Prizren.

This monumental complex is rich with artifacts that offer fascinating insights into the late Ottoman period and the Albanian struggle for independence and sovereignty. It reminded me a lot of the Svrzina Kuća in Sarajevo, with its small stocks, wooden-framed 'pendžeri' (windows), and portraits of historical figures from the Ottoman era.

Stepping into the old house felt like traveling back in time to when the prominent leaders of Albania gathered to discuss the future of their country. But for me, it was more than just a historical journey—it brought back early memories of my life in Sarajevo.

We crossed the Stone Bridge and entered the old city, where we visited the Sinan Pasha Mosque. 

As I walked, I slipped into a daydream—the Stone Bridge transformed into Princip’s Bridge, the old town morphed into Baščaršija, and the Sinan Pasha Mosque became Begova Mosque. It was the same path I used to take every day to school in Sarajevo. The mosque was stunning from the outside, and its interior design was a stark contrast to the icon-filled interiors of monasteries. There was even a special balcony that high-ranking officials used back in the day, according to our guide, something I had never seen before.

Next, we wandered over to the Church of Saint Đorđe Runović. While it wasn’t as magnificent as the Gračanica Monastery we visited a couple of days ago, it was still impressive. Both of these structures are nestled in the heart of Prizren’s old city, which retains its old Ottoman architecture and layout. The old bridges connecting different parts of the city over its beautiful river were picture-perfect. It felt like home.

Despite the heat, we decided to climb up the road that leads to the 11th-century Prizren Fortress.

It was quite an adventure. The climb was steep and the road a bit rough, but the panoramic view from the top was totally worth it.

The fortress itself was a strategic spot back in the day, offering a vantage point to spot any approaching trouble. Halfway up, we had a wild encounter—a boar darted out of the forest, chased by a dog that had been tagging along with us. It added a bit of excitement to our trek!

By then, I was very hungry and eager to see how Prizren's food compared to that in Baščaršija. Our guide recommended a place in the old city, though it wasn’t his first choice since most places were closed for Eid. It was a bit odd that on Eid there weren't many people outside, but it must have been because it was midday, a time when families gather at their homes for lunch. Craving a taste of home, I ordered ćevapi (meat sausages). The waiter surprisingly knew Bosnian, and we bonded quickly, so I helped him make the order for the whole Peace Lab group. Later, I overheard him speaking Turkish as well. But that’s no surprise, as Prizren is a melting pot of cultures. The majority of the population is Albanian, but there are also Bosniaks, Turks, Serbs, and Gorani ethnic minorities . The ćevapi were good, I must say, but nowhere close to those in Sarajevo. Some might say I’m biased, but I believe many would agree with me.

After the meal, most of us were pretty tired, but we knew we had one more special stop planned. We headed southwest toward the Albanian border and made our way to Lake Black Drin.

We had dinner at the Lugina e Drinit Bar Restaurant, which was an absolute treat. The hosts were incredibly friendly, and they had these three beautiful peacocks wandering around. The restaurant had lovely view of the lake and the surrounding nature, reminding me of the southwestern part of Herzegovina, particularly Jablaničko Lake. We even got to swim and sunbathe, which was the perfect way to relax after a day of exploring. 

And the food—oh man, the food! I had the best lamb ribs and oven-baked mushrooms I’ve ever tasted. Everyone else seemed pretty happy with their plates as well! Our professor certainly knows where to find great restaurants. The trip back to Prishtine was mostly quiet as everyone, myself included, succumbed to a food coma after a long and exhausting day. We arrived back at our hostel just before midnight. Tomorrow is a very important day, we are meeting the Prime Minister, time to go to sleep!

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