Last day

By Stefanía Ragnarsdóttir

Hey! Writing from Pristina airport (on 21 June) as we are currently on our way home to Amsterdam after ten amazing days in Kosovo. Being an Icelander who thrives best in 10 degrees, I have to admit that escaping the 30+ degrees that have accompanied us over the last ten days is a certain relief. However, the heat is the only thing I won’t miss from Kosovo and I expect the next few days to bring withdrawal symptoms from the Bureks (Balkan Pastry), the beautiful nature, and the lovely people who met us with open arms everywhere we went.

Every day on this trip has brought us something new and yesterday was no exception. We started the day by meeting with Kosovo's deputy minister of justice. Having learned throughout this trip that high-ranking officials are often greatly skilled in talking around topics, avoiding questions and so on, meeting the minister was a refreshing experience for the group. He was very willing to take on any questions the group brought up and he answered with honesty and enthusiasm. We learned about some of the challenges the ministry has faced in bettering their justice system - ranging from broader obstacles such as a lack of trust to more concrete hurdles such as conservatism hindering legal reforms regarding same-sex marriage. The minister spoke openly about his view on some of the international institutions that work in Kosovo - such as UNMIK and EULEX - he spoke highly of neither, referring to the former as “not being seen since 2008” (when Kosovo declared independence) and the latter as a “failed story”. We had previously met with both institutions, making it even more interesting to see the contrasting perspectives different actors in Kosovo have on the situation.

We also learned about some of the successes of the ministry of justice in Kosovo such as the criminalization of femicide, which the minister took much pride in. While it is my feeling after this trip that Kosovo is quite patriarchal, I also learned from the people I have met during this trip that this is changing and efforts are being made. Which leads me to my second meeting of yesterday that had to do with a project my group and I have been working on, exploring women empowerment in the post-conflict society of Kosovo. 

We met with two women at the beautiful restaurant Tartine, a hidden gem in the center of Pristina. The restaurant is the first ever female-owned restaurant in Kosovo, opened by the friends Adelina, a lawyer, and Gresa, an architect, in 2016. The restaurant exclusively hires women and Adelina and Gresa have specifically aimed at including groups of women who would otherwise likely struggle with getting a job, since unemployment is a major issue in Kosovo. The place offered delicious fresh food and sweets and was a good contrast with the heavy, but also very much appreciated, barbecue and fatty pastries Pristina otherwise offered. 

We got to know Adelina´s and Gresa's story and how incredibly hard they have worked to open the place in an environment that does not make it easy for women to do things, such as getting a bank loan, essential to starting a business. Seeing the restaurant offering a space for women to work, enjoy food, and in general come together was truly inspiring.

The afternoon was spent on various activities. Some of us took advantage of the great hair and nail salons Pristina offers, making sure the group will not disappoint when back in Amsterdam. Then we were driven to yet another beautiful lake, Batlava Lake, where the brave ones took a swim, the dedicated tanners relaxed on the shore and others hid from the sun in the shade. 

A dinner under a full moon finished the day off in the best way possible before we headed home to the hostel, enjoying the last evening together with the group.